Banjar Valley Part II - Sojha
It's funny to see people's expression when you iterate the name of a place as uncommon as that of Sojha (or Shoja as the name appears on Google maps). An elder (read higher altitude) cousin to Jibhi, Sojha provides magnificent views of the valley covered in pine trees and mist. More so it enjoys the proximity to Jalori pass which is the starting point for the trek to Seroskar lake and Raghupur fort. Having covered the lake on my previous visit to Jibhi, this time around my itinerary included Raghupur fort and Chehni Kothi. While standing at Jalori pass you get a glimpse of Raghupur fort on the distant hill which to the sight seems afar yet as per the villagers it's not more than 4km trek. ‘So close no matter how far..’. Chehni kothi on the other hand is an architectural marvel in itself.
Thankfully we got seats on a bus from Majnu a Tila (luckily) having missed our booked one from ISBT KG due to a friend being late. Why don’t people understand that you live in India and ½ hr statistically doesn’t actually mean ½ hr even if it’s the metro! Never mind! Once the journey starts all these mis-happenings seem as a blur. Reaching Aut (get down before entering the tunnel) we boarded a local bus bound for Banjar. There, at the taxi stand I asked around and a certain Mr Omi was ready to take us but before, since we were already hungry, he pointed to the dhaba on the ground floor just where the road bent. The dal here is delicious. Tea is also good. There’s a Chinese dhaba as well just above this.
Having our bellies filled, we started for Chehni. Man the guy can talk. Our driver Mr Omi started conversing with us and in no time we bonded well. Though 90pc of the time it was he who talked and we listened. Stories, people, places anything and everything things that comes to this guy’s mind he’ll share with you. Funny and interesting guy. Within half an hour we reached Bagi which is the starting point of trek for Chehni. At Bagi there is Shringa Rishi temple, built out of wood in traditional pagoda style architecture that is typical to Himachal Pradesh. There are couple rooms on the ground floor where you can keep your belongings with assurance and even stay is you wish to. There are two storeys in this temple. The idol is kept on the second floor where the puja is done. We were blessed and given prasad, desi ghee halwa. The breeze that kisses you while you are sitting idle on the balcony is a pleasure in itself. But we couldn’t let time pass here only and started the trek. It's not much just about 1.5kms. On the way, there are apple orchards and corn fields. I tasted green apples for the first time and never have I lusted on an apple before. What taste, crunchy and juicy. The corns were also very soft and sweet. The village folk are very kind hearted and let you pluck as much as you want. We also received couple nashpati’s (pear) each from an old man who just happened to see us and he took it from his bag he was carrying. The energy level for our trek was supplemented by such generosity.
Around 1500 years old, Chehni fort is built out of stone and wood. Initially there were 15 stories, but it suffered 5 storey destruction during the earthquake of 1905 but still 10 storeys are still alive as ever with a bit of reconstruction and repairing been done. There are sign boards put up on the wall that it might be dangerous to get up but then people have done it. This is a regret I have from the trip. To enter the tower you have to lose your clothes and wear a dhoti instead which the villagers will provide free of cost. When you reach the height you have a 360d eagle eye view of the valley all around from a height of ~20m. In one of the house in the vicinity, a lady was making pattu, a full length woolen winter wear for the women. We envied her office location.
We returned back, took our belongings and headed to our stay at Sojha, Raja guest house. This time our driver was Mr Deepu, Omi’s brother. The guest house is well built and reasonable. Warm and comfy. Sit back and relax in the balcony with a cup of tea and some snacks. It will be one good time. Next day we called Deepu and he took us to Jalori pass. It was sheer coincidence that he willingly wanted to trek with us to Raghupur, though he has done it numerous times before with his buddies and normally he doesn’t prefer much to go with travelers. At times the trail might seem that you should go left but remember that whichever route takes you higher is the right way. It was only because of Deepu that we could reach, else we surely would have landed at some villager’s house. The trek is at a steeper gradient but the views along are so mesmerizing that the painstaking effort amount to nothing. Trek goes through a foresty area initially and you might chance upon some wild flowers and berries. After roughly two hours we reached Raghupur. The place is at 12000ft above msl. There are lush green meadows all around and clouds at your feet with the quaint filling the space. The landscape is so perfect you would want staring at wherever and whatever meets the eye. The place is incomplete if described in words. You need to experience the surreal it has to offer. A fort used to be here which was built for a king for his leisure. These were built like small castles taking around 10 years with stones being brought by mules over that time frame but all that remains now is pile of stones bounding a small temple and another bigger temple. There are numerous ponds with different kinds of flowers. You can see sheep and horse grazing with their respective herders. The wind speeds are high enough to bring a chill. Even the birds find it difficult to fly; one bird seemed to be stuck in one position no matter how hard it tried flapping it wings. The wind brought the clouds closer touching the grasslands. Deepu popped the idea of camping here and he would arrange all the requisites. Raghupur was probably the highlight of the trip and we would definitely want to visit this again. & CAMP!
Contact Deepu - 08627983234
Contact Raja Guest House - Elu Ram ji - 09418550549, 09459017592
