After watching the Hollywood blockbuster ‘The Hangover – Part II‘, Bangkok made its way up on my list of places to visit.Also, because I found out that it offers Visa on Arrival to most countries, including India….So before I knew it the flights were booked, bags were packed, currency exchanged, and we were off to Bangkok.
For those of you who are not aware, the currency of Bangkok is the ‘Thai Baht’ (THB). Now the Baht has a lower value against most currencies. Hence, a holiday to Bangkok can be fairly economical & affordable, to most people. Bangkok like most developing South-East Asian countries comes with its fair share of concerns like pollution, traffic vows, population, etc. But, what I like about this city was how they have managed to preserve their traditions, heritage and culture while still looking towards improving infrastructure, growth & development. This wonderful marriage between the old and the new is what excites me most about this place. This is clearly visible in its skyline, where one would see both the ancient temple spires and new modern buildings & skyscrapers, complimenting one another and standing together in perfect harmony.
The locals here are very warm, friendly and are always willing to help tourists. Language is a bit of a concern, though, as most of the locals do not follow English and only speak Thai. Knowing a little bit of Thai, even if it’s only Hello (Sawadee Kha / Khap for men), Thank you (Khop Khun Kha/ Khap), no Thank you (Mai Ow Kha/ Khap), can go a long way. Of course, if all else fails, the universal Sign language works…
Coming back to our little holiday
Bangkok’s airport is located out of the city, and it took us quite a while to get to our hotel. Also, because our hotel was on the Western bank of the Chao Praya river (Tip: Accommodation on the Eastern bank of the river is better, as most of the tourist destinations & shopping areas are on this side). The airport is well connected to the city via the Airport Rail link. This is the fastest way to get to the city. Once in the city one can use the Bangkok BTS, MTS Metro services, together with the Chao Phraya Express boat services to move around. Of course, one can also take the local taxis and Tuktuk’s for a more local feel.
A long nap & shower later, we were all refreshed to head out and explore. I am not going to bore you with our day by day itinerary. Here’s all the exciting stuff that we did
AN EVENING AT KHAO SAN ROAD
This 1 Km long strip is power packed with the local flavors of Bangkok. From budget guesthouses, mid-range hotels, internet cafe’s, swanky bars & pubs, massage parlors to shopping, travel agents, and bookshops, this strip has it all. The atmosphere here is truly infectious, and this is THE place to hang out with the locals, young hipsters, and tourists. Taste of the local cuisine, shopping and a foot massage on the street side is most recommended.
LOCAL SHOPPING
One entire day was dedicated to satiate my wife’s hunger for shopping….
First stop was the Chatuchak weekend market. This is one of the world’s largest weekend markets and has more than 15,000 booths selling goods from all across Thailand. One can find clothes, handicrafts, local souvenirs, ceramic ware, Chinese ware, wooden furniture and much more. This can easily be reached via the MRT and is adjacent to the Kamphaen Phet station and 5 minutes walk from the Mochit Skytrain (BTS).
Next, stop the MBK Center. With over 2000 shops, restaurants and service outlets. This is one of the largest shopping malls in Bangkok and is in the Pathumwan area. It has direct access from the National Stadium station via the BRT Skytrain. This center has a very interesting plaza at the lower level, where one can shop for local fashion, handicrafts, and electronics.
Last but not the least was the Platinum Fashion Mall. Located on the Phetchaburi road in the Pratunam area, this is one of the most visited malls in Bangkok. Like most fashion malls, this one too specializes in fashion clothes & accessories. But, unlike other malls, Platinum offers products at wholesale prices as well. A must visit for those who want to follow the trends.
Finally, after an entire day of shopping, I was completely exhausted while my wife was totally excited. Why wouldn’t she be, after all, nothing works better than retail therapy
A RIDE IN THE TUKTUK
Hailing from India, the Tuktuk was not alien to us. We call them ‘Auto Rikshaw’s back home. Nevertheless, we wanted to experience the Tuktuk’s. They are more spacious & comfortable than the Rikshaw’s back home. These are one of the best ways to gel among the locals and learn about the local culture & lifestyle. Get chatting with the driver and you will get insights into the Bangkok way of life.
TASTING THE LOCAL CUISINE
I feel that the local food of a place strongly reflects the culture, environment, ingenuity, and values of that place. I must say that the local cuisine of Bangkok does play a significant role in this. Of course, a majority of the cuisine is Thai. What stands apart in this cuisine is the use of ingredients with medicinal benefits. Although most of the dishes are simple and are lightly prepared one cannot ignore the intense aromatic components that are part of this cuisine.
Apart from being sold in small carts along the street, their food can also be tasted in the many food trucks that are found around the city. Especially near the malls and popular shopping areas.
A DAY VISIT TO AYUTTHAYA
After a lot of shopping and eating, it was now time to immerse ourselves in the history and heritage of Thailand. What better way than to visit the ancient ruins of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. A 90-minute drive from Bangkok will take you to Ayutthaya. The city of Ayutthaya was the capital of the province of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins of this city are now preserved as the Ayutthaya Historical Park. Ruins include temples, tombs together with old relics & Buddha statues. A unique and interesting place to visit and a photographers paradise…
Well, that was the end of our time in Bangkok, and it was now time to go island hopping in Koh Samui.
Yes I went alone. For a 15-day vacation. Not to any local place within India but to the United Kingdom. A land approx. 4500 miles away from where I live. It was scary, yes. I had never traveled outside India before. What made me more scared was people’s reaction when i told them i was going for a vacation.
“ARE YOU MAD?” “YOU’LL GET KILLED!!” “AREN’T YOU NERVOUS??” “WHAT WILL YOU DO ALONE?'” “WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS TO YOURSELF?” You can imagine my desire to get as far away from these people as possible While these reactions and my parents’ reaction of shock and horror did scare me a bit, it did however strengthen my resolve to go for it. And so, the days until my departure were nearing. My excitement and my mother’s concerns had made a big hole in our roof. The day had finally arrived. June 14, 2014. I was sitting in the airport and suddenly i started thinking to myself “Will it be worth it?”, “Am i doing the wrong thing?”. All this negative energy had clouded my brains all the way to London. Deboarding at London Heathrow, i was still a bundle of excited nerves. But the moment i stepped out of London Paddington and onto the streets of London….. WOW!!! The vibe that exists on London Streets is unparalleled(I have no frame of reference, but still) A huge sigh of relief. I realized i did the best thing for myself! The next 15 days of my life…those magical 15 days were the best days of my life. And i think it changed me for the better. I did what I wanted to do each day. Complete freedom. I became comfortable with myself. Comfortable with getting wondrously lost in the 4 places i traveled to in the UK(London, Cornwall, Liverpool and Edinburgh). Got comfortable with eating alone in restaurants which i had never even thought of doing before doing this trip I started conversations with total strangers. ME!(I’m your ideal introvert by the way). Spent numerous hours just observing my surroundings which i probably would never have done had i traveled with someone. Every meal tasted better, every landscape looked more stunning. And yes, i got better with my photography, i think.
So what i am trying to convey here is..you must travel alone for at least once in your lifetime. To a place where no one knows your name. Get lost with yourself. It will certainly be one of the most magical(If not the most magical) experiences of your lifetime!!
“Traveling – It leaves you speechless. Then turns you into a storyteller.” - Unknown
This post was originally published on 'rhnbansal'.
The Road goes ever on and on Down from the door where it began. Now far ahead the Road has gone, And I must follow, if I can, Pursuing it with eager feet, Until it joins some larger way Where many paths and errands meet. And whither then? I cannot say J. R. R. Tolkien
01 Jan 2016
2300 hours: My phone rings, I hope against all hope it isn’t him. With sleep in my eyes I check the name on display, yep, it is him.
“Hey Dom, please tell me its good news.”
Laughs, “bro I was doing the once over for my bike and noticed my engine oil level is low. I just topped it up a couple of days back, worried that I may have a leak.”
“Damn! What’s the earliest you can be sure?”
I knew what was coming next, but did not want to hear it.
“Sorry bro, I’m out, cant risk it.”
“Cool man, shit happens. Get your bike in order. Cheers.”
And just like that another ride cancelled. I lost the number of times we had made plans to ride together and cancelled. This was going to be a New Year ride, something to remember the start of the year by. The original plan was to ride on New Year day itself, but it had been mutually decided to defer the ride by a day due to the risk of encountering drunk riders and cops making the ride a misery – the normal New Year drama!
We had planned a ride to Kalsubai peak – the highest peak in Maharashtra, this also happens to be near Bhandardara dam and Arthur lake, it goes without saying we had a pretty elaborate itinerary. Our biker friends gave us pretty awesome feedback about this ride and our route and itinerary was planned with the help of their experience and the internet, a round trip of approx. 350 kms in a day.
Alas!
02 Jan 2016
0000 hours: Lying on my bed hoping by some miracle Dom gets his bike fixed, or calls back and says it was all a joke. No such luck.
0300 hours: Was startled into the world of the living by my squeaky alarm. It took a while for me to come to terms with the cancellation. As I got into bed the thought crept into my mind again, I remember deciding against it as I slept. Weighing the Pros and Cons. Can I? Should I? What about permissions? What about safety? I gave it another 30 minutes before making up my mind.
I am riding SOLO!
Destination? I went over the route in my head, most of it was highways/expressway. Not exciting at all. I wanted the first one to be challenging, exciting, different, and scenic. So I decided to change the destination, I can always do this route another time with Dom and the other guys. Also it wouldn’t really be fair on my part to leave Dom stranded with a broken bike and do the route alone. So where? Had to think fast, it was almost dawn. Always wanted to visit Raigad Fort. A quick google search returned a 136 km mountain road route right up to the fort, green and scenic. Looked like something I could be interested in. Further south I noticed a place called Harihareshwar, back to google, search results were impressive. A quiet beach, away from the hustle and bustle, what else can a Goan boy ask for? My destination was set.
0345 hours: Gave my bike the final once over, checked my gear, said a little prayer and was on my way.
0430 hours: Took my first stop for breakfast at a small dhabba just outside Panvel city. This is the first time I was riding geared up and it took me some time to get off the gloves, helmet and jacket. While I took these off the waiter patiently stood by with a menu in his hand. Once settled, I took the menu and thanked him. He still stood there, this was surprising as normally once the waiter hands you the menu card he gives you a few minutes to go through it and then returns to take your order, I thought he was very kind to keep waiting on me while I decided, to not make him wait any longer I quickly looked down at the menu, the menu ended before it started. It had just three items on it – Tea, ‘caffee’ and idli! This cleared up any doubts I had as to why he stood there – there was no need to leave. I ordered idlis and ‘caffee.’ While I waited for my breakfast to be served I went through my route. I did not have a phone holder attached to my bike which meant if I had to navigate with my phone I would have to keep halting, something I wasn’t very keen on doing, plus I wanted to save as much battery as I could for emergency use – did not have a power bank either!
Roughly this was the route: Panvel – Pen – Nagothane – Kolad – Mangaon – Mhasala – Harihareshwar.
Panvel to Pen was the easy bit, pretty straight roads, I had also travelled that route before. After Pen it was unchartered territory for me and my bike. Memorised the route and the place names, it would come in handy if I ever lost cell phone connectivity.
The idli and sambhar were just ok, but at least they were hot. I couldn’t complain of the view as much, the 10 minutes it took me to gulp down my idli and ‘caffee’ I had a front row seat to biking groups ride by the dhabba, I counted 3 different groups – a group of Royal Enfield riders followed by Ducatis and as I finished the last of my ‘caffee’, the loud Harleys made their ride by.
Settled my bill, geared up, and set off again. The route wasn’t too complicated so was hoping to cover a considerable distance before stopping again.
It wasn’t bad at all, hardly got any traffic owing to the fact that I had an early start and also because it was a Saturday. Music would have definitely made it better.
0530 Hours: Second stop. Somewhere after Pen. I covered Panvel to Pen fairly easily, even though I had not ridden this route previously I did have fair idea of the location and route. To describe in a sentence what I saw was a bridge from darkness into the light, and for some reason this compelled me to stop and click this moment. The image does not do justice to the real view. Also as I was admiring the view I remembered what Sam said to Frodo – “If I take another step, it’ll be the farthest I have been from home”, this point ahead was unchartered territory for me – the feeling was ‘different’.
Into the Light! I did a quick route check on my phone and was on my way.
0610 hours: Stop 3 – Nagothane. My trip meter read 60 kms. Not bad, it took me roughly an hour and a half to cover 60 kms including a 20 minute breakfast break. While doing my route check I realised I had missed a turn off a few kms behind, asked a few locals for help with directions to figure out if going back was any good. It wasn’t, that turn would have added another 15 kms to my trip. Got verbal directions from the locals, thanked them and left Nagothane behind. Around 25 mins and 20 kms later I reached Kolad. The roads from Nagothane to Kolad were bliss. Some sections were still under construction however even those sections were pot-hole free. After Pen I rarely encountered pot holes. I was easily doing between 80 – 90 km/hr throughout. My next marker was Mangaon, there was a turn off from Mangaon towards Mahasala and I had no intentions of missing this one. Mangaon was the only place I encountered traffic yet.
0900 hours: I reached Harihareshwar! Before I describe the beach I must say I was surprised by the roads to Harihareshwar from Mahasla. Most of the section was Ghats, but the roads were smooth and pot hole free. There was the random ST bus blocking the road, but other than that one of the best roads I rode on.
The roads I so fell in love with. What cannot be seen is the road winding into the mountains.
The beach just added to the high from riding. It was deserted! I was expecting to see a packed beach owing to the holiday season. More than the loneliness of the place what took me by surprise was the cleanliness.
Harihareshwar Beach
This was at Harihareshwar beach. I spent almost an hour and a half here. There were a couple of couples but other than them I had the beach to myself. It was one of the most peaceful and silent times in my life.
On one end of the beach were rocks, where you could sit and dip your legs into the cool ocean water. I had not carried much in way of food and drink, a bottle of water, a couple of red bulls, a few chocolates and a few packets of chips. I enjoyed the moment with chips and red bull on the rocks! I gave it another 30 minutes before convincing myself to leave. I had almost made up my mind to stay, but I had a plan to follow. I had made this up en route, I would visit Harihareshwar, Srivardhan, and Aravi Beaches before heading back.
And I was glad I did not wait back. Harihareshwar was great but what came next cannot be expressed in words.
A beach between two beaches. Harihareshwar behind the hill on the left and Srivardhan on the right (Cannot be seen in pic)
Even though Harihareshwar and Srivardhan are almost adjacent beaches the route to get from one to another is long and twisty.
At a junction I stop to ask directions from a local. This boy was well dressed and seemed as if he was on his way to a party. After he gave me directions he asks me if I could drop him to a place en route. I agreed. He told me this was the first time he sat on a ‘super bike’. I did not correct him or explain the difference between a super bike and what I was riding. I did not want to ruin his happiness. The entire way he encouraged me to go ‘aur tej’!
The place he wanted a drop to was only 2 kms from Srivardhan beach, and I was right about where he was going - a wedding party. He was so glad to have got a drop and sit on a ‘super bike’ that he invited me in for lunch. I obviously refused with as much respect and appreciation as I could, however he would have none of it. A relative of his was getting married and he insisted that I accept his hospitality. I was looking for ways of telling him that I really wanted to try the famous sea food in the dhabbas here without hurting his feelings. Couldn’t come up with any, so accepted his offer. I had a little of everything he offered, it was vegetarian food, but tasty! I wished the couple and was ready to leave. The boy comes with a small package in his hand. He had packed sweets for me for my journey – Faith in humanity restored!
I had lost track of time. It was almost half past noon when I reached Srivardhan. Srivardhan was another beautiful beach. Wasn’t as secluded as Harihareshwar, but was as clean and beautiful.
The sand on this beach was vehicle friendly, and I took my bike to get a feel of the water. Normally you would expect the bike to get stuck or slip in the sand, which did not happen here. There were other vehicles too all over the beach.
I did not want to spend too much time here, because by now I really wanted to see what came next.
Srivardhan surprised me. Also, I wasn’t sure how long it would take me to get to the other beach and back. This was supposed to be a one day trip.
Trying to be a photographer – Srivardhan Beach.
Srivardhan Beach
It was only after I left the beach did it strike me the damage I must’ve caused the chain and sprocket riding in the sand. A quick cleaning and I was on my way again, making a mental note to get it cleaned thoroughly once I get back.
It was now well past 1430 hours. I was on my way to Aaravi Beach. Again the road exceeded expectations and so did the view. However, there were no hotels or restaurants on the way. I silently thanked my new found friend for his generous package of jalebis and for insisting I have lunch with him.
Another hidden beauty. On the left was Srivardhan, the beach in the centre between the trees was inaccessible, Aaravi was just beyond the trees on the far side of the picture.
At this point I truly lost all notion of time. All I could think of was reaching the next beach. So far one was better than the other. The view just got better. It was hot, but even the heat could not ruin the beauty of the place. What got to me was the silence. Silence everywhere I went. The roads where silent – no horny driver, no speeding rider, the beaches were silent – no crying children or noisy adults. There was peace all over. And not to forget – the Smell, throughout the ride I could smell the coast.
I no longer was riding at break neck speeds, did not want to miss the views. I wanted to take it all in. I was riding at 40-45 km/hr from Srivardhan. Never was I so fond of riding slow than I was at that point in time.
Aaravi Beach – The picture says it all!
Aaravi was different from the other two beaches. The road circumvented the beach. This beach did not have an entry point like the other beach.
The only barrier between the road and the beach was coconut trees. I rode all the way from one end to the other. I really did not mind riding back all the way. Those extra kms were worth it. I sat at this point and had a couple more ‘jalebis’ and finished off with another red bull. The only thing that would be left out on the list of things to do was sea food.
Points like the rocks at Harihareshwar, and this point at Aaravi really gets you thinking. I was surprised at the thoughts going through my mind at these places. At Srivardhan it was more fun than serious thinking. The serious thoughts are well beyond the scope of this write up and hence I shall leave them out.
I was never a fan of going back the way I came, it gets me all gloomy and sad, it reinforces the fact that that particular thing will end. And as I cross landmarks I go back to the point where I crossed it for the first time. I was wondering if I would see my friend again. I should have asked for his name, we called each other ‘bhau’ which translates to brother in English, and it was apt for were we not brothers? Isn’t it your brother who would stand by your side when you need him the most? I was his brother when he needed a lift, he was mine when he offered me food and sweets for the road, and did that not help me when I needed it the most?
My nameless brother, I shall forever remember you whenever I have jalebis!
The road ahead looked tempting, it was a steep climb and then disappeared around the mountain. I wonder where that would lead me. Would it lead me back home? Would it help me escape going back the way I came? Should I risk it? I checked the time, I would also have checked the route on my phone but as fate would have it I had no cell phone reception.
I thought to my self – interesting. I have two options, either go back or continue riding in the direction I was going. I could not make an informed decision due to lack of cell phone service and lack of locals to ask for directions. So I had a snicker and flipped a coin. I had enough of serious thinking and brooding.
Chittorgarh Fort is built on a south-eastern plateau of the Aravallis that rises about 500 ft from ground level. The Fort covers an area of about 8 sq. km making it the largest fort in India. Built by the Mauryas between the 5th and the 8th centuries, it had been occupied by the Rajputs and rulers from Gujarat with periodic assaults by Muslim rulers. Chittorgarh was the capital of the Kingdom of Mewar till Udai Singh II shifted it to a more secure location, Udaipur, in 1559.
The Fort has also seen epic battles fought over it and has experienced 3 sieges between the 15th and 16th centuries, each one more horrific than the other. Travelling through the Fort, its many gates and winding roads, and noting its various security measures, I find it difficult to believe that the Fort was ever conquered. But history says otherwise !
In its heyday, there were about 70,000 people living within the Fort walls; today, only a fraction of that number resides in settlements scattered through the Fort. When we reach the top it is to see constructions in various states of ruin and exhibiting Hindu, Jain and Mughal architecture. While the temples appear to be in good condition, others like Rana Kumbha’s Palace, the first complex I visit, are in ruins.
During his rule (1433–1468), Rana Kumbha renovated large portions of the Fort and built new structures and added to the existing ones as well.
Though the Palace, which is believed to be the oldest structure in the Fort, is in ruins today, it is not too difficult to imagine the magnificent structure that it once must have been. As the guide points out where the Rana used to watch the sun rise and pray every morning, where the musicians used to perform, where the women’s section of the palace used to be, where the underground escape routes used to be… it is also not too difficult to travel back in time to a different era.
The next place we visit is the 15th-century Kumbhashyam Temple dedicated to Krishna. Built by Rana Kumbha in 1449, it is an exquisitely carved temple that just took my breath away. Though the guide says that the temple represents the Indo-Aryan type of architecture, I’m not sure as to what it means and he wasn’t able to elaborate either. Inside the temple walls are covered with panels depicting stories from the life of Krishna, and from the Vishnu Purana.
My next visit was to the Vijay Sthambh or the Victory Tower, again constructed by Rana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over the Sultan of Malwa in 1437. It is 9 storeys tall and intricately carved with various Hindu deities. The word “Allah” is inscribed in Arabic in the 3rd and 8th storeys.
Though one can climb all the way to the and I was all set to do so, I had to drop the idea. A 100-strong group of male tourists descended on the Vijay Sthambh just as I reached there and proceeded to completely take over the space. They ran up and down the stairs, screamed, howled, jeered and basically made a complete nuisance of themselves.
I wisely decided to forsake exploration of this intriguing structure and decided to see as much as I could through the zoom of my camera lens.
Our next halt is Rani Padmini’s Palace, which was originally built in the middle of a lotus pond. During Rani Padmini’s time, this must have been a really beautiful place, with flower gardens and a lotus filled pond. But today, the stagnant pond is foul-smelling, and the damp, moss-covered walls only makes me feel slightly nauseous. Even the existing palace is a 19th century reconstruction. But this does not seem to deter tourists as after Vijay Sthamb, this is the most visited place in Chittorgarh Fort due to the legend that surrounds Rani Padmini, the beautiful queen of Rawal Ratan Singh I, then ruler of Mewar.
Tales of her beauty travelled far and wide and reached the court of the Sultan of Delhi, Alauddin Khilji. This led to the first siege of Chittorgarh in 1303 when Khilji cut off the Fort’s food supply for 6 months. Legend has it that Khilji agreed to lift the siege if he was allowed a glimpse of Rani Padmini. This was agreed to and through a complex system of mirrors, Khilji had a glimpse of Rani Padmini from the guest room of the Men’s Palace built across the pond from Rani Padmini’s Palace.
Khilji went back on his word and demanded that Rani Padmini be handed over to him. Ratan Singh refused and a battle ensued in which 30,000 Rajputs were killed. When it was certain that Khilji would storm the Fort, Padmini and other women committed jauhar, the first of Chittorgarh’s three such events.
I can’t help wondering how the Rajputs would have even allowed an unknown man, and a Muslim at that, to have a glimpse of their queen. Wouldn’t this have been equivalent to dishonour? And isn’t death before dishonour the code for the Rajputs?
My final halt at Chittorgarh Fort is a large open clearing around which there are Hindu and Jain temples, a raised pavilion and ruins scattered about. This is the royal cremation ground. A path leads to a water tank known as the Gaumukh Kund, which was the main source of water at the Fort during the numerous sieges. An underground spring feeds water to the tank from a structure shaped like a cow’s mouth — hence, the name. The water is considered to be holy and I actually saw people removing the green scum that floated on the water’s surface to drink it.
How to Reach-
Trains: Please click the link below to download the Trains Timetable at Chhitogarh. I will create an English version and upload it soon. http://thinkingparticle.com/image/railway-timetable-chittorgarh
Chittorgarh has 3 daily trains to Delhi and many to Sawai Madhopur (for Ranthambore National Park). It is also well connected to Udaipur via trains. Kota, the major junction for the trains to south India and Mumbai is just 3-4 hours away from Chittorgarh.
Bus: Chittorgarh is well connected with frequent busses to Udaipur (2 hours), Kota (3-4 hours), Bhilwara and other towns. There are not many direct busses from Bundi to Chittorgarh so if you are coming from Bundi then you can either come via Kota or get a bus to Bijolia (1 hour) and then catch a connecting bus to Chittorgarh. There are few busses to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Pushkar.
Nearest airport: Udaipur(Dabok)
Government Museum Chittorgarh (Fatehprakash-Palace): Visiting hours: 9:45 AM to 5:15 PM (Closed on every Monday) Entrance fee: Indian Nationals (5 INR), Foreigners (50 INR), Indian Students (2 INR, free on Friday).
Fatehprakash-Palace was built by Maharana Fateh singh (1884-1930) of Mewar. In 1968 Sate Government of Rajasthan established government, museum under archaeology and museum department.
This place is double storied and rectangular in shape with north facing main entrance. There are four domes on the four corners of the palace and they are visible from a distance of around 5-6 Kilometers and each pillar is decorated with a golden coated vase on it.
In the palace Bel-Butas and bird figures are engraved on the carving colourful glass which has been done by the artists of Bassi in Chittorgarh District On the upper story the wooden lattice windows have been constructed keeping I view the parda system (veil system) in such a manner that the person inside can view outside but the outsider cannot look inside. In the middle of the pool the statue of Maharana Fatehsingh is situated.
Gaumukh Kund:
Of much interest to the tourists inclined in geology is the Gomukh Kund where stream of translucent water flows permanently through a rocky outlet in the shape of cow-mouth. Devotees from all over the country come here for a holy bath. North of Gomukh is a Jain temple where a consecrated idol has an inscription in Kannada script which suggests the idol was brought from Karnataka. The idol also has the Devnagri script of 1468 AD.s
South of Gomukh in a bed of rocks is the ruins of the palaces of Jaimal and Patta who lost their lives in defense of the fort fighting against Akbar. There is a water reservoir here on the bank of which are the Buddhist pillars suggesting the existence of Buddhist temples during the Mauryan period.
Whilst in Udaipur, I kept aside a day to visit the Chittorgarh. Chittor is about 110 kms from Udaipur and it takes about 3 hours to reach the ramparts of the Chittor Fort (Garh) that overlooks the town below.
The best thing about the fort is one can have a glimpse of it standing in any part of the city (market chittorgarh)
There’s a nominal fee to enter the fort. It’s a good idea to engage a guide and should cost you about Rs 200. By doing so, you can easily move around in the car and make stops at important sites. You would need about 2 hours for a whirlwind trip. History enthusiasts can easily spend a day.
Second, the great Maharana Pratap, son of Rana Udai Singh II who is regarded as a personification of the values Rajputs cherish and die for. He took an oath to spend his life living in the jungles and fighting until he could realize his dream of reconquering Chittorgarh from Akbar (and thus reclaiming the glory of Mewar). It was the dream greatly cherished by Maharana Pratap, and he spent all his life to achieve this goal. He underwent hardships and a life of eating breads made of grass while fighting his lifelong battle. Maharana Pratap is the greatest hero in the eyes of the Rajputs of Mewar. In the absolute dark era of Rajput history, Maharana Pratap alone stood firmly for his honour and dignity, never compromising his honour for safety. With the reputation of a brave man with great character even among his enemies, he died free in 1597.
This view of the fort is clicked from the train. as you reach Chittorgarh you get the glimpses of this huge fort from the train itself. Rajasthan is a land of forts, ruins and stories. These stories speak of the glorious Rajputana to the fall of the great kingdom due to betrayals, greed and internal wars. The stories are not just about the bravery of kings but that of queens too. One such Rajput state was Mewar and one such fort that silently tells the tales of Ranas and Ranis of Rajputana till date is Chittorgarh. Chittorgarh was known for its grandeur in the past, but all that remains now is ruins.
As we were having our own vehicle, we also visited There’s no light up there. You can see people only at the start of the fort on the gates. Them up there no one roams at night.the fort at night. It’s very scary at night.
I was a bit scary as this fort also had many wars, and jauhar’s. And there are many stories behind this fort. As we all know at such places its something, some energy that is there in these places which one can feel deep inside.
Many films are been shot here in this beautiful fort. And the recent one is the Prem Ratan Dhan Payo, Ye Jawani Hai Deewani And a lot more..Remember that poignant scene with the amazing sunset just before Kalki Koechlin’s wedding? Head to the majestic Chittorgarh Fort in Rajasthan for your own moment with the sunset, or maybe just stand in the Titanic-style romantic pose for that awesome click! the shooting of Prem ratan dhan payo has also been done here.
Go there, Explore………………. have a great time… listen to the stories and just get lost in the history. Jai Mewar.
This post was originally published on 'travelbuffvj'.
Crystal blue water, white sands, warm sun kissed beaches, limestone outcrops rising out from the sea and coral reefs teeming with marine life. Sounds like an image out of a picture postcard? That is just another day at the captivating Koh Lanta.
If you are in the mood for relaxing by the beach or do some deep sea diving or some snorkelling, or visit a sanctuary on elephant back or indulge in some delectable Thai cuisine, then look no further, Koh Lanta has it all.
A tropical paradise for escapists and adventurists alike, Koh Lanta is the name of an entire archipelago of 52 islands which rise above the emerald green waters of the Andaman Sea. Koh Lanta Yai is the largest island here which is approximately 30km long and 6km wide, spotted with white sandy beaches, luxurious resorts and rubber plantations.
How to get there?
Koh Lanta, an archipelago of 52 islands on the West coast of Thailand is an hours boat ride away from Krabi or a couple of hours by van and a ferry. For all the photography and Instagram enthusiasts out there, keep sure that you have your camera on. You will never get tired of the scenery here!
The view from my cottage at Koh Lanta
Island hopping from Koh Lanta:
After settling into my cosy cottage that overlooked the sea, I decided to spend my next day doing the famous four island tour from Koh Lanta. With some enquiring around and a lot of bargaining, I got myself a great deal from a local cheerful lady who had a little bike rental and island hopping tour shop. Her reassuring demeanour and contagious laughter had me rest assured that tomorrow would be a great day and I was in good hands.
I woke up the next day to a sumptuous traditional Thai breakfast and downed my food with a big glass of the best coconut shake I have ever had, while looking at the beach and the vast expanses of the Andaman sea that lay beyond me. I was picked up by an open topped motor van and was greeted by a father and son duo who were going to be my tour guides for the day. Their limited knowledge of english and my more so limited knowledge of Thai, ensured that we would have a fun day communicating with each other! My tour van also had some other fellow travellers from across the world, with whom I became good friends during the course of the day.
Enjoying my breakfast overlooking the sea
After a short ride amidst the lush greenery and captivating sceneries of Koh lanta we reached the small fishing village off one of the islands many beaches. From here we were to embark on our adventurous and spectacular Four island tour in our traditional Thai long tailed fishing boats.
The four island tour had us visiting the the islands of Koh Chuck, Koh Ngai, Koh Maa and Koh Muk,also known as the Emerald cave.
Thai long tailed boats such as these served as our mode of transportation for the day
We set sail riding the waves with the wind in our hair, the sun in our face and excitement rushing through our veins! The sea does feel a lot more choppy when you are in a smaller boat and the sudden big wave would have a lot of us fall off our seats! We anchored off our first island of Koh Chuckafter about an hour of sailing. This island has sheer limestone cliffs that extend out of the sea and it serves as a natural harbour for a legion of coral and marine life. We were handed our snorkelling gear and the instructions were simple, “jump into the water and take your time”. This was my first time at snorkelling and the sight and colours that I saw underwater, left me breathless! I saw a swordfish dart across me and a large squid that gently passed by me, with a pace that felt like it was on vacation mode too! There were schools of multicoloured fish that would swim by us, totally oblivious to us weird four legged, awkwardly swimming non aquatic beings amongst them!
The island of Koh Chuck with its emerald green waters
After about 40 minutes of underwater magic it was time for us to set sail to our next island, which would be our destination for lunch. We set sail towards this gorgeous white sanded beach with dense foliage lining the horizon. Our next destination was the quaint Koh Ngai. Koh Ngai is the perfect romantic getaway. This gorgeous island hosts white sands with views of distant limestone kaarst sprouting out of the sea that are picture post card perfect!
We were served a delicious home cooked meal of the traditional Thai green curry with steamed white rice and a kimchi salad, which we enjoyed while in awe of the beauty of this tropical paradise. We ambled along the white beaches, swam into the sea, gazed into the horizon and marvelled at what we were truly blessed to see in front of us.
Marvelling at the gorgeous view that lay in front of us
Lunch at Koh Ngai
Our next destination was a rocky outcrop rising steep out of the sea which was a short ride away from Koh Nagai. Koh Maa is a lovely limestone kaarstoutcrop one amongst the dozens that line the Trang sea.
It was time to put on our snorkelling gear once again and dive into the emerald green waters near this island. We were greeted with schools of such brightly coloured fish that life on land seemed to be drab and colourless after witnessing this underwater jamboree. I made a mental note to myself that my next purchase has to be a GoPro camera to capture this underwater paradise.
As I was admiring this display of colour, I suddenly felt a sharp stinging sensation all over my body, which made me swim back to my boat and get out of the water. I came to learn that this water is full of microscopic sea lice which tend to get active around mid day and my alien terrestrial body was not welcome to them! It was only after rinsing my body with some fresh drinking water that the stinging ceased and I decided to respect the sea lice and not enter their territory again.
Last but not the least…
Our last pit stop which was definitely the highlight of our trip was the visit to Koh Muk and Morakot cave, also known as the emerald cave. The cave has a small access that can only be used during low tide. The beach at the end of the tunnel can only be accessed by swimming through this underwater cave with only a little head space from which you can breathe. The colour of the water changes from a blue to a deep emerald green to pitch black as you reach the centre of the tunnel and then as fear begins to grapple you, you literally get to see the “light at the end of the tunnel”. And what a sight it is! White sands surrounded by sheer vertical high cliffs with dense foliage and sunlight bouncing off the emerald coloured sea! The excitement is palpable amongst everyone and you are left speechless marvelling at this hidden gem.
Swimming through the emerald cave to get to Morakot beach
The Morakot beach at the end of the emerald cave.
We embarked back on our boats exhausted but spellbound with the beauty that we witnessed on this gorgeous day. The ride back to Koh Lanta was panoramic and by the time we got back, the sun was just about kissing the horizon. We alighted our boats a satisfied and humbled bunch and bade farewell to our always smiling tour guide and his adventurous little boy.
Sunset at Koh Lanta
I left Koh Lanta thinking to myself, “the sea once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever!”
To experience the magic of Koh Lanta and re live the four island adventure, get in touch with me at Offbeat Tracks.
Dubai boasts of beautiful beaches, expansive cruises, shopping malls, golf resorts, and hot balloon rides. It truly is every holidayer’s go-to place. Just when you thought Dubai was perfect and a must-visit, here is another piece of news that will give you another reason to book your tickets to the City of Gold.
All credits to Bollywood’s incredible popularity all over the world, Dubai is offering paradise to all Bollywood-crazy people out there. Here is a virtual glimpse of this out-of-the-world Bollywood-themed park.
Rock on with your own Bollywood concert
What makes Bollywood different from every other industry is its music! Don’t you just love Bollywood music and concerts? If yes, Rock On is the right place for you.
Don’t we just love it when the hero plants a kick on the villain’s body, and later punches him for kidnapping the heroine? Well, all the dhishoom-dhishoom will come alive in this amazing Dabangg ride!
From Aamir, Salman and Shah Rukh Khan to Farhan Akhtar's Rock on, this park screams Bollywood!
Manipal is a beautiful university town located on the rocky hinterland of the Malabar Coast of south-west India, about 8 km east the Arabian Sea. Located on a plateau, it has a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea to the west and the Western Ghats to the east.
Also sometimes known as a cosmopolitan village, Manipal is home to the renowned Manipal University that attracts close to 25,000 students every year. I am one of them. Manipal is the perfect place for those who like to venture out to the unexplored. Every student in Manipal waits for holidays and long weekends; long enough for a short trip, but not long enough to go back home. The wide network of the Konkan Railway and buses available is liking an icing on the cake. Given below is a list of places that every Manipal student must visit during the course of their stay in Manipal.
Goa
Probably the most commonly known holiday destination, Goa is every student’s favourite. Cheap alcohol, wild parties, crazy hippie atmosphere is all that one wants while on a vacation with friends. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a place to just chill peacefully, Goa offers you that too. It is just five hours away by train from Manipal and the best time to visit is from the middle of November to the end of March.
A more peaceful and less commercial version of Goa, Gokarna is purely blissful. Just a few km off the National Highway 17, it is a 3-4 hour train journey from Udupi station. Go there alone, or with a wolfpack, you’ll end up having a lot of fun. The sand, the calm beaches, and the food - everything here is just perfect! Stay at one of the beach shacks, and sleep on the beach under the starry sky, instead of a resort or a hotel (depends on what you prefer). Namaste Cafe’ at Om Beach is famous for its parties and delicious food.
An absolute treat for all those interested in adventure and trekking, Coorg is a must! Located on the Western Ghats, and just a 6-7 hour bus ride away from Manipal, Coorg is like the dreamland of the philosopher. Nature is at its best here. You can relax your body and mind with special Ayurvedic massages.
A hill station which can be reached by bikes or cars, Agumbe is about 50kms from Manipal. It receives the highest rainfall in Karnataka, and has one of the highest peaks in the Western Ghats. Situated at a height of 830 metres from sea level, it overlooks the Arabian Sea. The best part is the drive to Agumbe which is an exhilarating experience. Another place for the adventurous, Agumbe is known for the deadly snakes, dangerous hairpin bends and monkeys on the way, and rafting in the Sita river.
Kudremukh literally means ‘horse-face’. Another amazing drive, it is named that because the faces of the mountains look like that of a horse’s. It is the largest reserve of a tropical wet evergreen forest in Karnataka. Situated 1894 m above sea level, Kudremukh overlooks the Arabian Sea. The pristine green forests offer a holiday that can be truly rewarding.
One of India’s highest waterfalls, Jog Falls is just three hours by road from Manipal. The best time to visit is July and August, when the monsoon is at its peak. Jog Falls is the fifth highest waterfall in Asia. During months of summer, when the water levels are low, you can actually walk down to the bottom of the falls.
A place with a huge Shiva statue, Murdeshwar can be visited on the way to Goa or Gokarna. The idol stands 123 feet high into the sky and is the tallest Shiva idol in the world. The temple situated on a hill, is surrounded by the sea from three sides. The 2-3 hour train ride to Murdeshwar from Udupi station is the best part about this trip.
It is a beach resort, and a little distance away from it, on the Highway, there is a beautiful stretch of road that has the sea on one side, and backwaters on another. The resort is named after the turtles that can be spotted during the nesting period from October to December every year. Turtle Bay offers you pristine sands and clear blue waters for a calm weekend getaway, including nature walks along the coast, snorkeling, scuba diving and swimming.
Yes, the border of God’s own country is just 75 km away from Manipal! The 3000-year old Bekal Fort is one of the oldest, and best preserved forts in Kerala. It is shaped like a large keyhole, surrounded by a beautiful beach, and is a popular shooting location for filmmakers. The song ‘Tu Hi Re’ was shot here.
At a distance of 10 km from Manipal, and easily accessible by periodic buses, Malpe Beach is clean and perfect for a nice evening away from everything else. Students frequent this beach, that is also famous for its beach resort and amazing seafood.
The lighthouse at Kaup beach is a popular student spot, and hence, crowded at all times. It was built by the British in the year 1901, and is situated 15 km away from Manipal.
With a regular ferry service to and fro from a place near Malpe Beach, St.Mary’s Island is a small and beautiful island in the Arabian Sea. Vasco da Gama is said to have touched the island in 1498 before he reached Calicut. A couple of hours on the island is enough for exploration of the whole place.
After sacrificing 6 Movies, 30 Burgers, 1 Jeans and lot of planning & research the day arrived 14th May, 2016, when I was all set to go on a trek to Gaumukh Glacier.
The Backpack was ready, all the necessary things were packed to make it successful, reached at the Ludhiana Railway Station, and boarded the train & the journey started. Yesss… I was excited.
Next morning I was there in the city of divinity & adventures…Rishikesh!!! Checked in at the GMVNL Tourist Rest House, Rishilok and there I met my very first friend in front of my room,,, a beautiful doggy!!!
The Must do thing in Rishikesh: White water Rafting
As it was Sunday there was a huge rush on the roads,,, after trying at many booking agency finally I reserved a place on one of their water rafts.
It was 1:30 pm now, and I was there at the agency office…there were two other groups from Delhi and all those were too funny people. Due to Yatra season there was a huge traffic on the way to Shivpuri from where we had to start the adventurous journey and it was too hot but excitement was also on high node finally we reached Shivpuri after 2:30 hrs. And there were near about 5o rafts and Hundreds of People clicking pictures.
Our guide was a very funny person, first he provided a crash course on Rafting and told all the safety measures and now we were on the boat wearing the jackets and helmets, holding rafting pads. The journey started and the best thing happened…It was Raining!!! All the frustration in the traffic on the way was paid off!!! It’s a matter of luck that we were rafting in the rain. We were on our way over the rapids which got more and more adventurous as we went farther. With water lashing at our faces, the rapids sometimes took over our raft and the encounter was exhilarating.
Some times fighting the tides and other times gulping the water, we had no option but to enjoy the adrenalin rush. Water rafting is one activity which every fun-loving soul should experience at least once in their lifetime.
Then all of us jumped in the water and It was for the first time for me. I was too scared but thanks to the guide who helped me to win over the fear. Our raft then made a stop near one of the cliffs and many of us enjoyed the cliff jumping but I couldn’t. After cliff jumping 3 of our team were separated and they were not traceable. But they were rescued by other teams. We were hitting each other’s boats and racing with them. There was too much laughter during the entire journey; some lost their slippers & goggles but no worries as the fun was unlimited.
We mimicked our guide and he laughed along with us, really a funny person. The exciting journey finished near Ram Jhula and we all were on our way with a lot of funny & thrilling memories.
I reached my lodge after roaming here and there. I decided to enquire about the next day journey so went to the bus stand to enquire for the bus to Gangotri and there the entire plan gone into vain. The person sitting at the ticket counter said there is no availability of seats to Gangotri due to Char Dham Yatra season, I asked some private taxi operators but their charges were too high to afford. It was a big disappointment.
In order to not lose further first of all I located an internet café booked my return ticket 2 days before the schedule and cancelled earlier booking, thank god there was availability in the train as per my changed schedule.
So,,, after the dinner it was the time to arrange for one more day stay in Rishikesh and make next two days more adventurous than planned. I contacted with the receptionist of GMVNL Rishilok Tourist Guest House but all rooms were pre-booked so no chance. I requested them again and again, then Mr. Rajender (receptionist) made efforts and requested to the receptionist and manager of Ganga Resort and finally he made it. He is a nice person.
Next Morning
Next morning first of all I hired an Activa and shifted at the Ganga Resort and after seeing the view from there I just said “jo hota hai achha hi hota hai”. Taken my breakfast and it was the time to make the day more exciting so I decided to go to Dehradun. It is around 45 kms. There are so many beautiful deep forest that one can’t stop himself without clicking some pictures.
On the way I looked at the board of Jolly Grant Airport so decided to make a round through the airport. Taken a U-turn and on the way to the airport a person asked for lift and I offered. We talked on the way and he was an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer working with Indigo Airlines, Mr. Rana Pratap. He clicked some pictures for me at the airport and now we were friends. Then we were again on our ways.
I reached Dehradun but it’s not much exciting then I noticed the milestone indicating Mussoorie 35 Kms. Fuel was enough in the Activa to reach there and Yesss,,, I was on the way to another new place. I had not even imagined that the road will be through hills. But to make the day memorable I kept moving on. I was scared, losing the confidence again and again but regaining my energy and confidence to make it.
Thanks to those Nimbu Pani shops which helped on all the way to achieve my target. Those shopkeepers are very kind. Those are small family shops and when one reaches there the whole family attends the customer.
Many times I thought to come back but then thought “ jo uncounted “Man vs Wild” shows jo dekhe hain unka kya!!!
After a rollercoaster ride I reached Mussoorie the ‘Queens of Hills” at 3:00 pm. And view from the top is just awesome. It is Uttarakhand’s favourite holiday destination for many and why not. The view of the green valley of Himalayan peaks is sure to mesmerise anyone. Those high peaks and deep valleys, curvy roads, lot of greenery and a cool breeze. All the efforts were paid off.
As I had to return the Activa before 9:00 pm in order to keep it in budget; so decided to leave from Mussoorie at 4:00 pm though It was very painful. I taken my lunch and clicked some memories. Now it was the time to come back. On the way many school children asked for lift and their talks are so innocent,,,hahahahahaa.
Arrived Rishikesh and one of my Wish to do Mountain Biking were fulfilled. It is like preparation for Ladakh Road trip.
At the end of the day I had no regret about the failure of planned trip, my day had already became so happening.
At night I kept roaming on the banks of Ganga River for 3 hours, It’s so soothing to walk on a peaceful way.
Spirituality
The next morning I decided to visit the temples and the local market. Visited various temples and chanted my favorite kirtan “Hare Rama Hare Krishna”. It’s incomparable experience even though you’re atheist.
Now it was time to come back and pack the bag,,, the most nostalgic moment but I had to return to make more and more such memories.
I reached Haridwar and taken a dip in the Ganga at Har Ki Paudi.
In the afternoon At, I boarded the train and reached Ludhiana with every pore and cell of me filled with solitude, freshness and nature; and lot of unforgettable memories.
Have you ever felt a ‘wine buzz’? If not, you surely need to experience one. I experienced my wine buzz in a serene vineyard near Santa Fe, TX. If you are a first time wine taster, you ought to make a visit to your nearby vineyard. Wine has a very unique and magical quality to it. Like some other beverages, it is aged in wooden casks and benefits from marriage with the wood. It is said by winemakers that no one can exactly craft the final outcome; the wine constantly evolves, makes itself better, and tastes finer during the due course of time. Hence, time is the secret ingredient to any type of wine.
For me and my husband, there was a ‘bottled’ surprise waiting to be discovered from the past few months and finally we decided to open the surprise last weekend. It was a vineyard tour and tasting Groupon coupon from Haak Vineyards, Santa Fe, Texas. Both of us were excited to enjoy a laid back weekend in the vineyard.
Located in Santa Fe, Texas Haak Vineyards is about an hour and 15 minutes drive from Houston. The founder Mr. Raymond Haak’s passion for winemaking took birth when his wife Gladys gifted him a grapevine. Today, they are the producers of some of finest wines in Texas.Raymond and Gladys Haak inspect the vineyards personally and they actively take part in the winemaking process even in their late 70’s. Mr. Haak has his own private selection of wines in the cellar which he refers to as the library. His library of wines has a collection of 1000 plus bottles – a bottle from selected barrels in each season. The Haaks live next door to their business, in the same house they’ve lived for 50 years. Isn’t it amazing?
Our tour began at 12.30pm and we were hosted by Robin who was working with Haak Vineyards for the past one year. She was very knowledgable and had very good idea about the wines. She started with the facility tour that included the grape vines, cellar, bottling rooms, wine preservation rooms, etc.
At first we were shown the venue where the elegant vineyard weddings take place. It will definitely be mesmerizing to say ” I do” in the middle of a vineyard! Of course, I was lost in thoughts; visualizing a beautiful wedding in the picturesque landscape .
Then we were taken to the cellar where the wines were sleeping in American Oak barrels. The cellar was 9 feet below the tasting room. We were surprised by the number of bottles that could be made from one barrel; it could produce at least 300 bottles of wine! Something struck our eyes as soon as we entered the cellar – a statue of a quaint, pot-bellied man . We were fascinated by the significance of the statue when our hostess told us its story. The man was the cellar keeper of a famous vineyard in Portugal. Mrs. Haak bought the statue during her travels, and made it the cellar keeper of Haak vineyard’s cellar. It was told by the staff that the cellar keeper is like a guardian angel for all these years.
Then came the much awaited moment. Yes! the wine tasting time. In Haak Vineyards, we get to taste 5 different wines which are hand picked for the day by the staff. I jotted down the vintage, name and ingredients of the wines that we tasted. I have included my tasting notes below – this might differ for others as it is a personal experience and interpretation.
Before I start with it, here is a quick brief about the sort of grape that is grown in Haak Vineyard. Blanc du Bois (pronounced “Bloan Ju Buah”) grapes, a hybrid developed by the University of Florida, is the only varietal Haak grows. Mr. Haak coaxes seven styles of wines from the grape in varying degrees of sweetness and dryness, including a port, a madeira and a blush.
1. Blanc du Bois – Dry wine
Vintage: 2015 . Flavor & Nose : Mix of pineapple, mango and grapefruit. Pairing: Seafood and cheese (as recommended by the hostess)
2. Cabernet Sauvignon – semi dry.
Vintage: 2014. Flavor & Nose: Mix of plum, cocoa, mix of all grapes and sweet tobacco.Pairing: Meat
The king of reds, a big-structured, dark-fruited wine, the best of which become even more elegant with age. I could really feel the heat of the tobacco
3. Amorcito Sweet Blush – Sweet Wine
Vintage : NA. Flavor & Nose : 60% Merlot & 40% Blanc du bois. Pairing : Spicy food like Cajun
I am a lover of sweet wines. Dry wines really is not my taste. I really enjoyed the sweetness of the Amorcito Sweet blush.
5. Madeira
we tried Jacquez 2011 ( red wine) and Madeira ( white wine)
The red wine did have a strong coffee flavor which I totally enjoyed and it can be paired with cookies or butter pecan ice cream. We had it with a kiss of Hersheys.
Madeira is produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on their own as an aperitif, to sweet wines more usually consumed with dessert. We got a chance to taste two varieties of Madeira which were the speciality of Haak Vineyards.
In my wine buzz and excitement, I knocked over a sample glass of the Madeira! Was glad when the hostess refilled my glass. Watching this, the hubby did contemplate knocking his glass deliberately.
It is good to explore stuff outside your interests at times, because that is when you will get new insights about your likes and dislikes. I realized that occasionally I love to sip a glass of wine, while biting into decadent chunks of cheese or chocolate and spend my day.
So Houstonians, if you are looking for a getaway and you are lazy to drive far, check this out. Here is a small vineyard where you can spend your half day worthwhile. You may as well buy the Groupon tickets for Haak Vineyards. Here is the link:
Beatles Ashram - An enchanting experience that can remotely be captured through these photos and solely be enjoyed once your one among that aura. Let me take you through this in the form of a photo blog
Beatles Ashram is situated inside Rajaji Tiger Reserve , but this side of the reserve is not accessible to animals hence making it safe for humans to wander about. One has to buy a ticket of Rs 150 to enter Beatles ashram.
A short but steep trek with dome shaped kuttiyans ( cottages ) leads you to the ashram.
The trek leaves you at the doorstep of a road that has countless dome shaped structures sprawling in all directions. The steps to the 2nd floor of these cottages are ruined beyond words, so you must be careful while walking up.
The view of river ganga and the ghats by its river side from Beatles Ashram
Graffiti galore begins
Its all in the mind . Such vibrant colours, such casual fonts
If these words don't give you a chill down you spine and a undying need to teleport yourself to that date and experience this magic, then I don't know what to say!
When you look up at the sky and see a cloud, think of me- Lennon to Yoko
The tree of life with words of love
Love is the closest thing to magic we have . Indeed!
I wonder how? Do you?
The vibe in this place makes you earn for love is all i can say. There is so much love and peace on earth, why cloud yourself in negativity?
The man himself - John Lenon
There never is. Its all a vicious circle
The walk back to the main road where you can hail a cab. A long but interesting walk enshrouded with greenery on either sides. A trip to this ashram can get quite tiring due to the initial steep walk and long road to the highway so carry lots of water as there is no store /dispenser anywhere in the vicinity.
If you're upto treading down a path of a legendary bands experience in India and for experiencing a vibe that cannot be found in many places on earth, go to the Beatles Ashram . You will find the vibe your searching for.
I set out on the 19th April 2016 oblivious to the events that were going to change my life forever. I knew I was doing something special as this was my first solo road trip with “time out” as the end goal. And I was looking forward to going to Khajjiar and staying at the homestay I had been told about but I was unaware of the ripples that were going to shake the world as I knew it.
It began to dawn on me as we started our ascent into the hills – the rolling mountains, the winding road, the air beginning to clear and develop a cold nip – it was a cocktail that I wanted to savor every sip off. As we crossed Dalhousie and entered Khajjiar I knew there was no going back – my heart was loud and clear in its declaration of love and commitment to doing this over and over again. And it was with this soaring heart that I reached the Deodar Manor – a magical homestay a little above the Khajjiar meadow. As I got out of the car and emerged onto the driveway – the view had my smile stretch beyond what I thought possible. The stunning view of the Pir Panjal range and the contrasting hues of green and brown as the hills descended into the valley took my breath away. The alive green of the trees and grass dotted by the yellow and white heads of the brave little wild flowers was out of an enchanted forest. It felt like no lung full of that fresh cold air could ever be enough or earfull of the bird calls and the sound of the wind through the trees ever fulfill me. I discovered that the mountains have a strange effect on me – my eyes just don’t tire of taking in the view.
And this was only the beginning of the magic that was to unfold. I spent hours in the sun – my books forgotten as my senses were completely intoxicated by the sight of the ever changing view – mountains and valley and trees and butterflies and paragliders and flowers and sunrises and sunsets and moon phases and stars. Roger the 11 month Doberman and I struck a special friendship as he barked territorial warnings at approaching monkeys and we listened together to the birds and the wind and the murmurs of silence. Spending time with him involved a fair bit of scratching the back of his ears and rubbing the skin around his neck, touching noses and head pats - all of which I more than happily did while soaking in the beauty around and within. My heart overflowed with joy and peace and I felt myself flowing with every moment – whether it was chatting with others at the homestay or sitting in silence every moment was a lifetime of completeness.
And then there was the walking through the woods – a dream come true – the trails and the paths through the ancient Deodar trees and over the greenest - green grass that would suddenly emerge into clearings and meadows and other thrilling surprises. It was out of a fairytale and a dream come true. Since I was alone I could do all the exploring at my own pace, there was no one I needed to catch up with and no guilt of slowing someone down. I surprised myself at my body’s ability to walk for hours both up and downhill over all kinds of terrain that usually pose a challenge for me. On one of my walks I met a siblings returning home from school who took it upon themselves to be my guides and took me on a trail up to their home which had a view of apple orchards on one side and the mountains dropping steeply into a valley with the Ravi river snaking its way across the land. Despite it being a misty day the beauty of the view is etched in my mind and no photograph can do it justice.
There is no end to what my senses were exposed to over those three days and more than what I saw was what I felt – a sense of belonging to those mountains and the old wise trees, the fresh grass and the new flowers. A sense that this was home for me and that I needed to come back one day never to leave again. I have been to the hills before and since then, I have been lucky to travel to several parts of the world on solo trips but never before did I feel what I felt here. A sense of freedom, of timelessness, of flowing into the joy within and of belonging. It was heartbreaking when I had to tear myself away from Khajjiar and while it may sound dramatic – it is only in the knowing that I can and will go back that I could leave. I have read and heard accounts of people saying they fell in love with such and such place and left their lives behind to live there in a new life – and I would wonder at them and why they could not just visit and keep visiting. This visit to Khajjiar made me understand.
As I wrote to one of my friends as I travelled from Jammu to Srinagar through the breathtaking vistas of Patnitop and Kashmir - “While I appreciate the beauty all around me my mind keeps going back to Khajjiar - the mountains and the trees, the walks and the clearing. This morning I stopped to admire the way the light was dancing on the leaves of the trees I was passing and once more an image of something I had seen in the clearing popped back to mind... And that's when I realized... You've been in love so I'm sure you know the feeling of how everything one does reminds one of one's sweetheart especially when one is away... Well this is what this is... I am in love and while these places are also wonderful - they only serve to remind me of the place my heart belongs to right now.
I do not know how this story ends – will I go back or not, will it be as enchanting or have I over romanticized it. This may be the beginning of many new loves for me or this may be the happy ending that I eventually settle down to. Whatever the future may hold I cannot be what I was before I did this trip. The only way to describe it in words is that doing this solo road trip, staying in this homestay and exploring that land opened a space for me – a space of fearlessness and curiosity. I always loved travel but from what was earlier an option this trip has made exploration a necessity. Seeing new places and developing a different sense of viewing the world is now a part of who I am and I am already ready with my next adventure.
I cannot complete this piece without mentioning the people I met who made this even more special. Sapna and Raju (Nitin) who were the cook and caretaker respectively who spoilt me silly and when I left told me it was like losing one of their own. Theirs is an unexpected friendship and we are still in touch through Facebook and the mobile world. Shailja and Krish Sharma – my little guides who tell me they miss me and send me pictures of their latest adventures – Shailja all of 10 wants to become a doctor when she grows up and is looking forward to going to boarding school in Dalhousie next year. Other guests who showed up at the manor with strange connections to my world – one couple stay 15 minutes away from home in Gurgaon and we continue to be in touch. Last but certainly not the least Hanut and his mother - auntie who baked a cake for my birthday, whom I had long chats with on plus size modelling and chicken recipes, whom I admire for her strength and practicality and who surprised me with the affection she showed to someone who was just a guest like myriads of others who come and go. And then Hanut – hospitable, warm, kind, funny, knowledgeable, adventurous, free spirited, disarmingly honest and a good combination of intelligent and brave for having chosen this life. He drew me out despite my reticence and disarmed me by getting me talking of everything I am passionate about – a mean feat for such a short time spent together. By the end of my stay I knew I would miss the chats and walks we had as well as his unexpected insights and wisdom and the inspiration his life has become to me. Someday perhaps our paths will cross again and till then I am sure he continues to brighten his part of the world and blanket in warm hospitality other guests to the manor and his other properties.
However beautiful the photographs in this post none of them do justice to the beauty of the complete sensual experience that was Khajjiar and staying at the Deodar Manor. Oh and not to forget the icing on the cake – staying in the Pir Panjal room which has hosted… hold your breath …
Richard Gere…. This is where I swoon and sign off :)
We spent five days in the Eastern and Southeastern part of Switzerland, in the canton of Graubunden. This Canton has vast expanses of pristine countryside dotted by small villages of unsurpassed beauty and character, where vestiges of ancient rural tradition and ways of life continue to this day.
Using St. Moritz as our base location, we explored parts of the Lower Engadine valley northeast of St. Moritz, and then the Bregaglia valley to the south.
In my previous posts, I have described in some detail our trips to the amazing villages of Guarda and Ardez in the Lower Engadine Valley. In this post, I will take up the beautiful and rather curious (you will soon learn why) Vicosoprano village and briefly before that, our visit to a farm that makes artisanal cheese.
The way to the Bragaglia Valley from St. Moritz is via the Maloja pass. There is no rail service to this part of the country, but the Post Bus runs at frequent and regular intervals throughout the day, from St. Moritz.
After an early breakfast, we set off from St. Moritz for Vicosoprano. We headed south-west, rising steadily, going past the village resorts of Silvaplana and Sils and the chain of four connected glacial lakes – crystal clear and shimmering, fringed by lofty snow-clad Alps – on to the spectacular Maloja pass.
Situated 5,941 feet above sea level, the stark exposed plateau of Maloja is surrounded by bare jagged mountains. From the Maloja pass we made a sudden descent and then taking a sharp turn along a cliff edge, went through a series of switchbacks (zig-zags roads) down the mountain, to make a steep descent of 1000 feet into the Italian speaking Val Bregaglia. It was a dramatic decent indeed!
It was then that we noticed the changes. The chill in the air that we had felt earlier in St. Moritz was gone, and the vegetation had become dense, diverse, deep and lush. And instead of the large fashionably elegant houses seen earlier, we found modest cottages made or stone, wood and slated roofs. The mountains too had changed. The lower reaches were forested, and the upper reaches seemed less snowy than earlier; they were rockier, weathered, jagged and rugged, with sheer, smooth faces, deep ridges, and soaring buttresses.
We had boarded our bus at 9:08 am and by 10.05 am we were at Vicosoprano Camping, a beautiful thickly carpeted meadow, surrounded by soaring, uneven, rugged peaks. From there we took a narrow road that branched off and curved to the right, through a thickly wooded area, towards the Pungel village, to visit a cheese farm. We walked for a little (around 200 meters) slightly uphill and then over a bridge under which the waters flowed in violent gushes, roaring and foaming. The cheese farm, owned by the cheese making Perdoni family, was located just after the bridge. The sign in front of the farm on the road read “Zu verkaufen Käse, Milch und Eier” (Cheese, milk and eggs for sale).
In the Bregaglia valley, there quite a few varieties of delicious cheeses made from cow and goat milk. There is young cheese, soft and mild, as well as aged cheese, hard and sharper in taste. The cheese is certified as organic.
At the Peredoni farm, Master Cheesemaker, Mr. Perdoni showed us how predominantly handmade/artisanal cheese is made in small scale (unlike the industrial scale cheese factory we saw in Gruyeres). And then Mr. Massimo, the affable young assistant of Mr. Perdoni took us around the farm and showed us different breeds of cows. After the end of the tour, we tasted some cheese of different ages and then headed back towards the village of Vicosoprano by the Cadalpena Street.
After about 20 minutes of walking, we were in the Vicosoprano village.
Surrounded by meadows and forests, the village is located at an altitude of 3,566 feet. It is also a convenient center for walks, hikes, and treks into the valley and has a few hotels, pensions and restaurants. In the past, Vicosoprano was the capital of the valley and today, it is the largest village of Bregaglia. On the upper right-hand side of the village, an ancient Roman settlement has been revealed following excavated. The history of human settlement in this village, therefore, goes a long way back. Also, the history of the village is at once grand and sinister (and you shall soon know why).
The original main street leading to the village is no longer used as the bus route from St. Moritz. Instead, now the bus route bypasses the village, rendering the village tranquil and devoid of large vehicles. This made our leisurely stroll through the village particularly pleasant and charming.
Further ahead, after we entered the village and passed by a few beautiful houses and a fountain, we took a sharp right and immediate left turn on the same street, to end up in a small square. There we found another old stone fountain to our left and the ‘Pretorio’ (or ‘Pretorium’) to our right.
Built in 1583, the Pretorio, with its attached round tower/rotunda was the building that housed the court, as well as customs and municipal offices in the medieval times. Many legal proceedings were held here during those times. Now it is a museum, open to visitors.
Now, before I tell you more about the ‘Pretorio,' a brief history would be in order.
During the Middle Ages, Vicosoprano had played a vital role in the valley, regarding trade, commerce and politics because of its preeminent location close to the trading routes over the nearby Maloja and September passes. It thus gained an influential and prosperous position in the region. It was the capital, hosting the Bregaglia high court, bailiff and the Sheriff.
The beauty, peace, and tranquility of present day Vicosoprano, however, belies its turbulent history.
The Engadine and Bragaglia valleys in the canton of Graubunden had witnessed a conflict (called the ‘Bündner Wirren’ or commonly ‘Graubunden Roits’) that lasted from 1618 to 1639. This was a conflict between a political alliance of France and Venice against the Spanish-Austrian Habsburg Monarchy, played out in Graubunden. The Protestants were supported by France and Venice while the Catholics were supported by the Habsburgs in Spain and Austria. Each side sought to gain control of the Graubünden to gain control over the important alpine passes and by the end of the conflict, the Protestants were decimated and practically banned in the valley.
During this long conflict, several plots, intrigues and conspiracies were hatched in Vicosoprano; it was a hotbed of civil strife and public disorder. And then, there was a dark and sinister side too.
From the late 15th century to the late 18th century, there was a widespread fear of witchcraft in Europe, which led to a spate of persecution of innocent people. Tens of thousands of people, mainly women, were executed for alleged witchcraft. Those accused of witchcraft were tortured until they ‘confessed’. Obviously, if one is tortured, one would probably ‘confess’ to anything in an attempt to end their agony. And then when someone made a forced confession to escape torture, they would be executed.
In the 15th century, most of the trials involved independent-minded, freethinking men who refused to submit to the religious or political authorities. However in the 16th and 17th centuries, once secular power was well established, accusations of witchcraft were used by the authorities to regulate law and order and impose social discipline, and victims became largely women. In a loosely federated patch-work State like Switzerland, which did not have a strong central political and administrative authority, local authorities in the regions used witchcraft trials as a tool of fear and intimidation to assert their power and maintain their grip on the population.
In the 17th century, over 3,500 people, mainly women, were executed in the French-speaking area of Switzerland, reportedly more than anywhere else in Europe per head of population. And Vicosoprano had its share of executions in the Italian-speaking part of the country.
Vicosoprano was a place where innocent women who often fell out of favor of powerful men were accused as witches, tortured, tried and executed. The Pretorio was the building in which these sinister and sham witch trials were held, during which confessions were extracted by extreme torture. The Vicosoprano witch trials began in the second half of the 17th century, and more than twenty alleged witches were executed – hanged or burned at the stake.
Earlier I had mentioned that Vicosoprano is a curious village. Now you know why.
We spent some time in the plaza and drank some fresh cold water from the fountain and admired the beautiful old, well-maintained buildings around us. We then decided to check the Pretorio out.
On either side on the façade, above the arched entrance gate to the Pretorio were the two allegories (visual symbols) of justice and temperance etched on the plaster using the ‘Sagraffito’ mural technique (described at length in my posts on Ardez and Guarda). These two murals date back to 1583.
Temperance (or self-control), one of the four Cardinal Virtues in Christianity, is allegorically depicted here as a woman pouring water into wine, ostensibly tempering the quantity of intoxicating alcohol. Justice is allegorically depicted, again as the woman, with the scales of justice in one hand and a sword in the other.
On the right side of the Pretorio was the old medieval pillory (punishment post) – in this case a high stone block where a petty offender would, in days bygone, be bound with an iron collar around the neck in full public view, for whipping and debasement by the public. The iron neck collar still hangs from the wall grimly.The Pretorio building has two attached sections – the town hall built in 1583 and the much older rotunda (or the round tower), which was built in the 13th century. The rotunda was converted into jail when the town hall was built, and one can access the rotunda from inside the town hall.
As we entered the Pretorio (there is a small museum inside), the heavy walls, dim lights, and the uneven, cold stone floor gave us an eerie feeling. To our left was a large colorful mural, depicting the inglorious period of witch hunting and burning. It depicted the cruelty of the oppressors and the horror and agony of the victims powerfully.We then toured rest of the building – the wood-paneled courtroom (where the trial of the witches had taken place), prison and the torture chamber and this gave us a creepy feeling. In fact, the modern lighting and sound system inside the Pretorio have been designed to create a spine-chilling experience.
We saw the place where confessions were extracted from innocent women alleged as witches, using extreme forms of torture. We also saw hanging a noose. And then we went to the top to get an amazing view of the village. Finally, at the edge of the village were the stakes where the alleged witches were burnt. The Pretorio was supposed to embody justice and temperance, and we realized that it was anything but that. It served to alert us to our humanity, rather the lack of it.
We recovered from our tour of the Pretorio by walking through the quaint, picturesque village. We continued along the street through the heart of the village, past charming old houses. Some of the houses were grand and aristocratic, with hanging wooden and wrought iron balconies and beautiful ‘sgraffito’ murals (described in detail in my posts on Guarda and Ardez).
One of the ‘Sgraffito’ inscriptions thus reads (in mixed Italian and German) – “There is no man on this earth who does not have a touch of madness”. I felt reassured.
We also went past the St. Trinity Church next to the plaza (or piazza in Italian). Being a reformed/protestant church, the architecture of the St. Trinity Church and its interiors are simple and restrained, without much ornamentation. The carved wooden pulpit in the florid rococo style is beautiful, as is the sacrament table made of colored marble stone.
From there we proceeded to the arched stone bridge and saw magnificent views of the mountains on either side. The much older church of St. Cassiano (dating back to 1355, reconstructed in 1491 and renovated in 1864) is across the river at a slightly elevated position. It is no longer in use; I was told.
Getting back to the Plazza, we boarded the bus that took us to Soglio (covered in the next post) through Stampa and Promontogno. Our visit to the beautiful village of Vicosoprano, cradled by mountains and forests, was a wonderful and sobering experience by all means.
Travelling tips:
1. Foods to try: For those of you who love your meat, the specialties (I am so told) are salami, venison salametti, various cured meats, particularly the Bundnerfliesch (air-dried meat). You may get them at the Chiesa Family Butcher, a family that has been producing these specialties for over half a century in Vicosoprano.
For vegetarians like me, there is a range of cheese (including Goat cheese), but please be aware that the cheese may be produced using rennet, an animal product.
Since this place has vast chestnut grooves, it is also famous for a wide range of chestnut specialties such as chestnut ravioli (ideal for vegetarians), pasta and gnocchi made of chestnut flour, chestnut jam, chestnut cookies, chestnut cake and even chestnut flake cereal.
2. Getting there: There are buses leaving from St. Moritz to Vicosoprano Plazza every 40 minutes, via the resort villages of Silvaplana and Sils and through the Maloja pass.
The road descends dramatically from the Maloja pass, and there are a series of switchback roads and loops. If you have a problem with motion sickness (as I do), don’t forget to pop in an anti-emetic half an hour before you take the bus from St. Moritz.
In case you are doing only Viccosporano and you start early enough, you might get off at Maloja and spend a couple of hours there taking in the views. There are many beautiful picnic spots there. And just outside Maloja, in Pila, there is a beautiful waterfall of the Inn River.
If you are planning to do Soglio as well on the same day (you may want to see my post on that), head straight to Vicosoprano, and if you don’t break your journey in Maloja, you will be in Vicosoprano from St. Moritz in an hour.
3. Between April and October, the Pretorio and the rotunda are open daily. Guided tours are also available. You need to call and make an appointment. On the guided tour, you will also learn about the culture and local traditions of the Bregaglia Valley.
4. If you plan to go the Pungel to see handmade cheese being made, you need to get off at Vicosoprano Camping (the stop before Vicosoprano Plaza) and walk to the Pungel village by the road to your right, immediately after the Vicosoprano Camping bus stop. It is a lovely 20-25 minute walk through a small forest and over a bridge with a gushing river underneath. From the Pungel village, it is another 20-25 minute amazing walk over a flat road on the floor of the valley.
5. Other options in and around Vicosoprano: There are plenty of amazing options for hiking, walking and cycling into the Albigna region, from Vicosoprano. There are beautiful trails leading to the hamlets of Roticcio and Pungel, and there is a great campsite near Vicosoprano called Vicosoprano Camping. It is a dream destination for those of you who love camping and the outdoor life. The campsite has great picnic benches, undercover areas for cooking and eating, fire pits, barbecues and a good supply of free wood from the timber yard. Close to the camping site is a small lake or pond with rafts for children to play. So if you are an outdoor person, love camping and have the time (which we didn’t) go for a night and day at this camp.
Between Vicosoprano and Soglio is a beautiful little village called Stampa, the birthplace of the painter Augusto Giacometti and his son, the sculptor Alberto Giacometti. So if you want to pay your tributes to the artists, head for Stampa.
6. The shop “Artigianale Bregaglia,” (Bregaglia Handicrafts) offers visitors the opportunity to buy locally handmade crafts such as wooden toys, dolls, lamps, dishes, kitchen utensils, sweaters and dresses for children, blankets – everything beautiful, elegant and simple.
Plitvice was in my “Top Places to See” in Croatia when I planned my trip. And it didn’t disappoint. As a World Heritage Site, Plitvice maintains a pristine environment. Famous for its sixteen lakes, inter-connected by a series of waterfalls and their stunning colours, it remains one of the most popular destination in Croatia.
We made a day trip on our way to Zadar. Since we were in Croatia in the off-season, we could beat the rush. But we were surprised to see enough crowd for this season too. The Park is open daily all year round, with longer opening hours during summer (usually, 7 am to 8 pm). There’s an entrance fee: for adults it’s 55 Kuna (£5.50/€7.25/$8.50) January to March and in November and December; 110 Kuna (£11/€14.50/$16.50) during April to June and in September and October; and 180 Kuna (£18/€24/$27) in July and August. There are two entrances to the Park – Entrance 1 for the lower lakes and Entrance 2 for the higher lakes & Entrance 2 which was closed when we arrived. But don’t worry there is a lot to be seen through Entrance 1 too. The Park prints out/displays maps for some different sightseeing walks, of varying lengths.
Those who like hiking would love the area. Once you enter, there is a well-laid out system of wooden walkways which allows one to pass all around and sometimes through the water and there are hiking trails through the woods. The total distance of the UNESCO site is 18 kilometres. I suggest come early by 9-10 am and spend the day wandering around the lakes and waterfalls. From the entrance, we headed down the winding gravel path to reach the wooden walkways to cross the lakes passing by Veliki Slap, the highest waterfall in Croatia with a 78-metre drop. We passed through the Gavanovac Lake climbed to a cave and went around Milanovac Lake.
One can take a boat across Kozjak Lake too but we decided to walk to the resting and food area where we relaxed enjoying the beautiful scenery while the dogs played around. During the off-season sometimes water level rises and some pathways might get closed. THINK TWICE BEFORE TRYING to cross them. The water is cold enough to pinch you in the feet and make them numb.
Most of the walk was pretty relaxed and we managed to spend the few hours getting lost at the beautiful lakes. Swimming is not allowed here so for that one can visit Krka National Park. One can easily spend an entire day in the beauty of nature here.
How to Reach-
Plitvice Lakes National Park is located about halfway between Zagreb and Zadar. Both these cities are awesome places to visit, Zagreb being the capital of Croatia and Zadar with the beautiful old town. Driving to lakes from either of these cities will take almost an hour. There are also buses from Zagreb and Zadar, which go directly to the lakes. I suggest rent a car and drive around.
It was the work and the memories or should I say nightmares inspired by the childhood books about Dracula that I undertook the travel to Romania, my first in the Transylvania. After three days of struggling with the food (the only time I ate at Mc Donald’s/KFC instead of local eateries), I had lost my enthusiasm of venturing out of my room. My traveling partners dragged me out of my room and it was then I had this out of the world experience – boating at 370 feet deep under the earth surface at Salina Turda!
It was the last day in Cluj-Napoca, the unofficial capital of Transylvania, and I was cranky to have been my right to sleep till late. The idea of visiting a salt mine failed to impress me even if it was 2000 years old.An information leaflet read out that people with respiratory diseases visit this place for health benefits. But then I entered the mine and whoaaa!!! was instantly swept off my feet. The place has been anything unlike that I have visited so far.
The temperature inside was 10-12 degree Celsius with around 80 percent humidity. The air smelt cold and fresh! My lungs did thank me for my decision to undertake the journey. Apart from this the walls of the mine with layer of salt and mine blue and yellow lights did give a feel of a film set. The mines were constructed by hands and machines instead of exploding their way through. The visitors can go deep down till 400 feet take a walk through the history of salt mining. The mines have seen many lease of lives after mining stopped in 1932 as a shelter during World War II, as cheese storage centre and finally in 1992 as one of its kind museum.
The machine used in the extraction for the salt, age of which have been estimated to be around 13.4 billion years, have been kept intact for all. Descending through narrow stairways and a glass elevator one descends to a theme park with mini-golf, giant wheel, bowling area and a small lake for boating. It was here that we three non-swimmers with virtually no experience in using boat oars, decided to gain some experience. It was the scariest 15 minutes with three panicked people trying to sail the boat or shall I say rock it. The view from the boat, that my racing heart allowed me to witness, was breathtakingly spectacular. The layers of rock in different hues divulging its age and its mirror like reflection in the lake, the hanging stalagmites need to be seen to be believed. No doubt it has been ranked 22 most spectacular tourist destination in the world.
The two hour long trip to the salt mine ended with purchase of salt lamp, a small reminder of this underground wonderland and a fabulous amalgamation of man-made and natural beauty.
The town of Turda has a special place in the history. It was here that for the first time a Christian Europe passed an Edict of religious freedom, religious tolerance and Transylvanian identity in 1568.
How to reach there?– Turda is located 44 kms outsides Cluj and is easily accessible from major cities in Romania. One can take bus from the city centre and the journey duration is about an hour. Then one can walk from the bus stop at Turda to the salt mine. Ask any local, people here are friendly.
Cocooned in lush greenery, Coorg offers a raw insight into the nature's heart. You can feast your eyes on the beauty of verdure all around.
Here I would like to share my travel experience in Coorg.
Actually, we (my husband and I) had been longing to visit Coorg, but whenever planned it got canceled for some reasons. Finally our plan got materialized as a long weekend was coming and Coorg was on the top of my list :P. We booked a cab for 3 days and started in the morning by 7 am. Initially, journey was a bit exhausting as March is all about scorching heat in Bangalore. Eventually, after covering some beautiful tracks, we reached Coorg around 1 pm.
After having lunch and a short nap, we made our way to Abbey Falls. It is around 20 minutes away from Coorg bus stop. From the main gate, you have to walk 5 minutes through a track (might be troublesome for kids and old age people) to reach the falls. The view is quite beautiful, a stream of water flowing high from the mountains seems quiet a mystery.
We enjoyed the place, although March and April is not a good time to visit any waterfall as water in falls is usually scant.
In the evening, we visited Raja Seat. Known to offer alluring views of sunset and sunrise, Raja seat is one of the most crowded tourist spot in Coorg. It has a garden of beautiful flowers that overlooks a trail of mountains in a waving pattern. There are staircases from the park that lead to a balcony. This is known to be the end point of Coorg. Here, the vista is spectacular and very appealing. Clad in mist and cloud, mountains seem afloat in the morning. But if you really want to feel the thrill, just take a walk to the left from this balcony. Surrounded by bushes, 200m of this up and down track ends into a small cliff. This place renders a boundless and a closer view. Green mountains, azure sky, everything here is a treat to the eyes!
Here, I would like to emphasize that if you want to see the sunrise, don't wait on the balcony or at any other place in the park. Go to this small cliff (on the left of park) I mentioned or else you will be disappointed. Sit here early morning, feel the breeze and watch the phenomenal sunrise.
Apart from scenic beauty, musical fountain program of Raja seat in the evening deserves a special mention. Its a dance of colored fountains on some melodious songs. The drizzle of waterworks on one side and the echo of mountains on the other, this 30 min program is a must watch.
Next day we visited Talakaveri which is known to be the origin of Kaveri river. A temple is built here. Located beautifully at the foot of Brahmagiri hills, this place is full of divinity and positive vibes. Apart from religious touch, this place has much more to offer. There is a series of around 400 steps on one side of the temple leading to a hill top. The spectacle from here is unparalleled. Here, you would get the panoramic view of the Brahmagiri range which is incredible. The aura of this place is so rejuvenating that it will make one self introspect. Tranquility of the majestic hills is profound and enigmatic. If you want to see the pristine and wild side of nature then Talakaveri is a must visit.
There are many other places to visit around Coorg as well like Mandalpatti (famous for Trekking), Irupu falls etc.n but not all can be covered in a 3 day visit as they lie on very different routes. We chose not to visit these places this time and kept it for our next trip.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip for us and we would recommend every one to visit it at least once.
Whoever thought of winning over a mountain, was undeniably a fool. The big rock is alive & breathes its own ways. You can predict its way of life but you can seldom get close to what it really is. If you’re lucky, you can just stand atop the peak & shout out to the world at large. In the end, you’ll only end up whispering to your deepest self and walk out of there as a better person than you were when you gazed the perilous peak from the safe haven. The deciphering silence of a mountain is a blissful disguise. The mountain speaks its own language and we've got to give in to its methods to learn about life & find our true strengths. As they say, you can never conquer a mountain, you can only conquer yourself. Apt!
All of us look at scaling down heights in different ways. For some, it is a way of getting up close with Mother Nature while some of us just enjoy pushing our limits. In both the cases, the perfect doze of adrenaline is well-served with vigour. I always dreamt of taking a wide look at the world from the summit of a mountain. However, even after having done numerous motorcycle rides into the Himalayas, I had never got an opportunity to stand atop a desolate peak. The ecstasy of being on my own on the greater heights eluded me. It seemed like I was able to experience the very touch of wilderness but from a distance. It was about time that those dreams come true.
BON VOYAGE; REACHING SARI
Now travelling to the mountains is joyful unless you develop the common condition of mountain sickness. And trust me, which can really take the fun out of the remarkable trekking experience you’d be eyeing at. Fortunately, none of us in the group suffered severely from the unworkable ailment & managed to survive the unwinding drive in the Mahindra Xylo from Rishikesh to Sari Village.
We were a composed group of six people including our trek leader, Pankaj Deshwal from Bikat Adventures. Having done numerous treks of all sorts in the Himalayas, Pankaj is one well-experienced guide & trek leader one can travel with. Needless to say, he’s a better person than just being a minding authority. Since we were a small pack, we got the opportunity to get along with each other well. Countless talks & humorous moments followed as we put forward one sturdy step at a time on that treacherous terrain.
Making our way through Rudraprayag where we stopped for lunch & Ukhimath, we reached Sari around noon. At 6550 feet above sea level, the village rests amid the beautiful dense forest of Oak & Rhododendron. It’s a very remote establishment surrounded well with the beautiful bugyals (meadows). The stay at Sari was abstemious. Being the base camp for the steep trek to Deoria Tal lake, Sari enjoys much attention from travel enthusiasts. Ample options for accommodation and moderate eating joints make it a pleasant stay at the tiny hamlet. We strayed around in the vast fields behind the lodge in the evening. Since there was no trekking planned for the day, we just laid back & relaxed in the idyllic lap of nature. While we were at it, we managed to click the way of life around the village.
THE MYSTICAL LAKE AWAITS; TREKKING TO DEORIA TAL
Soon after hopping on to some delicious paranthas prepared by our humble host, we initiated our trek towards the heavenly Deoria Tal. On looking at the hill standing between the Sari village and the lake, one can tell that the trek is got to be steep enough. And sure it was. But what made matters worse was the sun. It got too hot within minutes of starting the trek. As soon as we started walking uphill, we could feel the scorching heat determined to test our limits. Throughout the 2 kms trek, the Sari village is visible from every corner. We walked through the dense cover of Rhododendron trees that spill the air with the fresh colour. It was challenging to traverse in that climate but the beauty of the terrain was just too tempting. Tip-toeing through the commendable turf, we reached the majestic lake within 90 minutes of starting. Since it was a steep walk, we almost gained an altitude of 1250 feet. And at the moment, it all looked worthy.
The sight of the clear green lake surrounded by the rough forest with the Himalayan peaks in the backdrop was jaw-dropping. It felt like the scenery has come to life out of a painting. The blue skies welcomed us in the delightful abode while the snow-clad peaks of Chaukhamba gazed calmly at our presence. They say camping at Deoria Tal is a lifetime experience. We could already see some trekkers unpacking their kits & setting up tents. Our host managed to reserve a suitable spot for pitching our tents while we wandered around the unbelievable venue.
The Himalayas present an astounding sight of vigorous tales of nature. Deoria Tal, situated at the height of 7800 feet above sea level, enjoys the presence of vast fauna precariously preserved amid the mighty Himalayan cover. During winters, the lake freezes partially and the weather is chilling. In summers, the days could get a little hot but the climate is pleasant in the evenings. We tried to catch up with the sunset, but all in vain as the valley looked ruffled in clouds. We had a nice dinner at one of the eating joints & took to our tents as the night shadowed upon the sublime lake. As the moon appeared bright & promising, the Himalayas presented an unforgettable sight. The aura looked heavenly in the moon light; I wished I could just stay out & glare at what nature had in store for us. Away from the city life, this was a perfect spot picked out for us. It was a serene silence in the air, when we decided to call it a day. Kudos to the nature for being such a treasure.
INTO THE HILLS; REACHING CHOPTA
It was a bright morning the next day. People wrapped up their tents & continued on their journeys henceforth. By the time I woke up & peeked out from my tent, quite some people had left already. We got ready and prepared the saddle for the trek ahead. The plan was to trek to Rohini Bugyal & camp there for the night.
We traversed into the dense jungle with our local guides. The path was feebly visible but involved a lot of ups & downs. And most of the turf was rocky. While moving downhill, my feet were having a tough time. They were almost sore by the time we reached our destination for the day. We kept eating in small quantities so as to keep up the energy. And of course, drank water at regular intervals. The sun was right above us & the valley opened up. It was too bright a day; sunscreens didn't seem to work much.
We found ourselves climbing steadily sometimes & then easing it up down the hill. It’s makes matters worse when climbing through the rocks. Any slippery section of the rocks could lead to a mishap. Plus, the height we were at made it a little precarious. We made our way through the Rhododendron forests to reach Rohini Bugyal by noon. However, to our surprise, the water streams were all dried up. And without water on our side, it was impossible to spend a night at the place.
Pankaj suggested that we should keep moving forward & aim to reach Chopta by evening. He was of the view that we’d find some desolate water stream flowing on the way for sure; although that was still a lofty expectation as the temperatures rose tremendously that day. We continued on our path through the numerous bugyals. It was 12:30 in the afternoon when we decided to take a break & have lunch. We took to a comfortable lump on the grass & lay back for a while. The food was delicious, given the remote location, we were in good spirits. Soon after gulping down a hefty lunch, we moved on. It was getting uncomfortably hot to carry the backpack in that heat. I was taking regular sips of water and within no time, I was out. Thanks to my friends who could share from their reserve. It’s an important learning from this experience. One must carry enough water to last the trek. Our search for water ended when we made our way downhill towards a stream. We could hear the sound of the ravishing waters from a distance & couldn’t wait to reach there.
Finding a random stream of water is a bliss of nature. We parked our packs on the side & entered the water barefoot to relax our feet. I drank plenty & topped up my water bottle. Soon when the rest of the group joined us there, we made our way towards our destination. It was an hour and a half long walk through the woods. Since we were all charged up after the much needed drinks, we talked a lot on the way. Needless to say, we didn’t even realize when we were down to the last mile. Within no time, we hit the road & could see Chopta from a distance.
I had been to Chopta before, during the True Wanderers 3.0 ride around Uttarakhand. However, I could never enjoy a great meal with bonfire on the side & settle in for the night in a tent. The evening followed with endless talks, smiles all around & a night beneath the starry canvas above us. While we took to our tents for the night, plan was set to start the trek towards Tungnath & Chandrashila early the next morning. And when I say early, I mean 04:00 AM. What was in store for us was watching over the world from the humble summit of Chandrashila.
I never wanted to sleep that night, for I was too excited to scale that mountain. I had been reading about this trail for years but never had I forwarded attempts to reach out for it. This was my chance at something larger than life. With countless dreams & aspirations, I decided to take a nap for the mighty trek under the star-studded sky.
THE FINAL LEG; TUNGNATH-CHANDRASHILA TREK
It was 04:30 AM and the gigantic terrain around us breathed calmly. There was no noise in the air; it was quaint as heaven. We started traversing on the well-laid trail up till Tungnath. Flashlights lit the trail as the path was faintly visible. Soon, we got lost into the dense dark forest that stood daunting ahead of us. While our local guide and Prakshal led the way, others followed. It was chilling at first but with due time I felt normal. The trek is steep enough to break your legs, especially when you’ve not eaten anything for past 6 hours and haven’t got enough sleep. I felt tired within first 30 minutes of walking. Slowly I realized I was at the end of the pack trying to seep through the tough times.
If my memory serves me right, I would have decided to quit the trek a couple of times. But the next moment, I asked myself the question I had been tumbling upon for years, “why climb those mountains?” I realized the efforts & the pain that I experienced were worth the satisfaction of making it to the summit. The view from the top was going to heal every little ache.
It was still dark. We saw snow patches on the side-walks for the first time on the trek. And that was an indication that a white cover could welcome us at Tungnath & for sure on the way to Chandrashila. As the sun hit the horizon, the valley lightened up from darkness & a new day shone to the crimson light. I saw Tungnath from a distance & couldn't help but smile seamlessly. It felt so soothing to have reached the destination after the troubles I faced along the way. The temple was closed as the winter season was declining & there was still a lot of snow around the place. The pack made it to Tungnath in time & sat there for a while. We talked for a minutes, gulped down energy bars & got ready for the climb uphill. And yea, it was literally a climb.
The path ahead of Tungnath temple is a little fight to climb. The broken rocky patches followed by the muddy portions of the trail give the hikers a tough time. We made our way through the desolate trails to reach the point from where on, it was all snow that we could walk on. The trail disappeared and it was just the thick snowy road ahead of us. This is where the pack really split into pieces. We all tried to follow the foot-steps on the snow but could barely stand the cold. The chilling breeze made matters worse. But the astonishing beauty of the place kept us going. We could see the temple at the Chandrashila peak far from our reaches, but we were on our way.
The memory of that instance is still fresh in my mind. I dreamt of scaling down a mountain & it was coming true. We were on a steep incline with nothing but snow under our feet and a terrifying valley staring at us from the swallowing heights. The terrain challenged our bodies but could seldom move our thoughts of making it to the summit. We slipped several times, lost tracks of the foot-steps and got stranded on those unforgettable heights with nothing but the ravishing peaks of Himalayas glancing at us. It was a scene out of a moving canvas & we were all the characters of the play. While the conditions tested our mettle, we defied all odds & made it to the peak exactly after 3 hours of climbing through the rock.
I was tremendously tired; so I took to a rock and rested there for a while as others bowed down to the temple porch & worshipped. I couldn’t bear the breathlessness and at the same time I was overwhelmed that I had made it to the summit. Every mountain around us looked up onto us. The blue frozen skies rested above us and there were horizons in any direction we could turn to. We were higher than the heights we once looked at with dreamy eyes. I thanked God for giving me the strength to keep going.
We had just been 10 minutes on the “Moon Rock”, and the weather Gods decided to turn the tables. The dark clouds from the valley on our side descended towards the trail we had just climbed. The fierce sounds of the winds gave us chills. In view of the depreciating weather conditions, we decided to fall away from the summit. We managed to click a few pictures but all in vain, as it was too cloudy in the distance and the astonishing views of Himalayan peaks that Chandrashila is well-known for, were missing. But nevertheless, we were there and we were delighted.
I found dropping down from the height much easier than climbing on a slippery trail. Also, I had gained more confidence & was not afraid of the valley upfront absorbing me in itself. We took generous time in getting down to Chopta by noon, not because we were tired, but because we wanted to absorb the striking aura of the Himalayas a little more on those heights.
The rest of the day was spent taking ample rest till the evening and taking distant strolls down the Chopta township. We enjoyed the lovely dinner prepared by Bikat’s local team, by the soothing camp-fire on that freezing night. I couldn't have asked for a better getaway than getting lost in the realms of nature.
SO WHY CLIMB THE MOUNTAINS?
Looks like this question is going to be there for a while; since I’m juggling with countless thoughts on what to recollect from the journey. We continue living our lives, doing the daily chores & gutting it out with the social stereotypes. However, we seldom realize the true worth & fragrance of life while we are at it. My message is clear. We’ve got to look beyond the horizons of conventional paradigms & step into the conscience of the fruitfulness this world has to offer. Travelling to the mountains makes me fall in love with the very worth of life & that’s why I wander.
Look for a reason fellas; a reason worth toughing it out for. In the end, that’s all what matters. Take a light moment & talk to yourself. I’m sure you haven’t done that in a while! Expression is of utmost importance & we tend to express in different ways. But speaking one’s heart out never goes out of style. Here’s what I felt:
My travelogues reflect each moment I spend wandering on unknown roads, among unknown faces… My scheme of things might look crazy to some of you, but where people might see craziness, I see inspiration & freedom. And this makes me want to shout out the message loud & clear; that when we start believing in our dreams & our passions, things tend to fall in place. That there’s one thing in our lives that could give meaning to our thoughts. That there’s a road to nirvana & we ought to take it if we seek change. And on the way, we’d inspire life. I be my best while I’m out there, living it up!
A million thanks to my friends who accompanied me on this trek & the organizers for setting things right. Pankaj, you’re the man buddy, thanks for the exceptional guidance throughout. Getting lost in the wilderness is a wonderful of luck; and with you guys, it was fun-n-frolic. A special thanks to Sonu & Prakshal for their incredible contributions to this photo collection. I owe it you guys for the support. Cheers to those who love to wander.
Travel is my inspiration & I shall always be lost in what I feel gives meaning to my life. Looking ahead to higher grounds & mightier challenges. How about you?
If you are one of those looking for something more to beat the hot and sticky summer heat than a straight-up whiskey or a chilled beer, then this list of the best cocktail places is for you. While it's relatively easier to find the traditional drinks, very few places mix the perfect cocktails that not only pack a punch, but also push you to order a second.
To make it a little bit easier, I've put down the cost of a Long Island Iced Tea (LIIT) – only the most popular cocktail ever – at all 10 restaurants to help you draw a comparison. So bookmark this list and your summer is sorted!
Must-try cocktails:The Porn Star, a concoction made of kiwi, rose and vodka; Watermelon Martini and Choco Loco, which has kahlua, vodka and vanilla ice-cream!
Must-try cocktails: The Garden Tonic, with capsicum and rosemary; Bacon Old Fashioned, classic drink with a twist of bacon bourbon and Citrus and Basil Tonic.
Must-try cocktails:Inception, described as a deep, savoury, rich whiskey potion with rosemary, vanilla, fresh pineapple and earl grey tea with smokey flavours; Constellation,gin-based with purple flowers and their range of spice-infused cocktails.
Cost of an LIIT: Rs 750
Where: 26/1, 31st Floor, Dr. Rajkumar Road, World Trade Centre, Brigade Gateway Campus, Malleshwaram
Must-try cocktails: The Secret Garden, an apple soaked mojito; Yamaguchi Sunset, a gin-based drink with peach and burnt orange chunks, and their seasonal range of cocktails.
Must-try cocktails: All those listed under Alfonso's Alchemy, which are basically fantastic concoctions mixed by celebrity bartender Alfonso, who is from Spain.
Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, two Italian climbers, made the first ever ascent of K2 on July 31, 1954. Interestingly, it took a local team of climbers from Pakistan another 60 years to make their maiden ascent to K2.
Director Iara Lee's film K2 And The Invisible Footmen follows this Pakistani expedition in 2014 called 'K2 2014 Pakistan Expedition: Sixty Years Later'. The team of six climbers from Pakistan, who were former high-altitude porters, were assisted by two Italian mountaineers to summit the peak. Iara Lee's film unearths the story of these porters in the Karakoram Ranges who are the heroes easily forgotten behind years of successes of climbers on the second highest mountain in the world.
Iara Lee's film quite literally traces the footsteps of these porters in Baltistan, who walk several miles each day carrying the luggage, food and equipments for climbers attempting to summit K2. With echoing Balti folk songs in this region of Northern Pakistan, every shot takes you closer to the reality of life in the region of Baltistan, home to the savage mountain called K2.
Deprivation, illiteracy and remoteness of this region together culminate into inhabitable conditions for the local Balti tribe that has been surviving here for years.
The film takes you to the remote villages of Baltistan where porters and their families not only survive in the harsh climate but also struggle with unemployment when the climbing season is over. The film captures unfamiliar aspects in the life of these porters, whose illiteracy and poverty gives them only limited access to earning a living. Carrying heavy loads on their shoulders for climbers who reach here to summit K2 is the only source of income in the region. Porters who are paid to carry 25kg are often exploited and made to carry as much as 50 kg as they walk.
The death toll is high for these Baltis who walk in high altitude regions without technical equipments or training.
The film also manages to draw parallels between the situation of the porters in Baltistan and the thriving adventure tourism industry in Nepal, where the local Sherpas have shared the benefits of the expeditions and created job opportunities for themselves as the industry grows stronger. The people of Baltistan on the other hand suffer due to the weak tourism industry in Pakistan owing to terrorism and remoteness of this region.
The 2014 expedition of the Pakistani team on K2 documented in this movie is all the more special since the team comprises the high altitude porters who are defining the new-age transition to becoming professional climbers.
K2 and The Invisible Footmen also thematically coincides with Jennifer Peedom's movie Sherpa which raises similar questions about the working conditions of Sherpas on Everest expeditions. Interestingly, both the movies were shot in two different climbing zones in the Himalayas during the 2014 climbing season.
Marking the beginning of a new age in the adventure tourism industry, these movies speak of inclusion of the locals and the idea of giving back to the communities who have remained invisible for all these years behind ambitious expeditions and flourishing adventure tourism industries.
Here's the trailer of K2 and The Invisible Footmen.
